- I now have over 20 weeks experience of living inside The Green
Rover while on trips. I have camped in over 100 degree temperatures
and in well below freezing temperatures. I have camped in gale
force winds, day after day of rain, snow and sleet. I have been
amazed at how well my original expedition design worked. All the
parts worked together well with very little refinement.
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- However I think that there is room for improvement. Based upon
my experience living in the original design, I am ready to make
the car even better for her intended mission. Her intended mission
is basically to carry me, my Wolfhound and my camera anywhere
I want to go and let me stay out in the field for at least a week
without stopping to refuel or resupply. Since I frequently travel
alone, robustness of the car, the capability to perform field
repairs, ability to transverse obstacles and to be recovered from
those she gets stuck in are very important.
Anyone can put up with just about any living conditions for three
or four days. However, the longer you are out in the field at any
one time the more the level of your enjoyment depends upon your
level of comfort.
Safety above all, but close on safety's heels is that I just want
to have fun. That means the car needs to go where I want her to
and it needs to do it in reasonable comfort.
Here are the problem areas that I have found during my first 20
weeks on expedition:
- Major field repair
- I only carry a high lift jack, factory manuals, a full set of
tools and some spares. This was not enough to handle things like
replacing 'U' bolts, broken shackles, broken engine mounts or
replacing front axles in the field.
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- I have run out of places to store spare parts and would like
to carry more for field repairs.
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- Off roading
- The car does not carry the capacity to air up.
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- The gearing is not low enough for some of the obstacles that
I drive over. Lower gearing would help me get over them safer
with less chance of damage.
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- I am limited by the length and steepness of hills that the car
can climb because the engine is under powered for the weight and
grade. The engine gives out before the tyre grip or suspension.
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- Basic structure
- I worry about the vulnerability of both under seat fuel tanks
and myself to side impact.
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- Better braking, especially with wet brakes would make the car
safer. Esp on steep down hill sections.
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- The plastic cloth on the pop up has deteriorated to the point
where it is very stiff and cracks easily
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- Gearing is only high enough for highway driving with the overdrive
engaged. The engine occasionally does not have enough power to
maintain the posted minimum speed limit. A V8 Rover can usually
get to a destination a day or two faster than I can.
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- There are road conditions and off road conditions that require
chains. I want a place to store them that is easily accessible.
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- Comfort
- Staying warm during cold nights has been a major problem that
a warm sleeping bag has not been able to adequately address.
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- Quick and convent source of hot water for cleaning myself right
after a day on the trail would be nice. Especially if it did not
compete with my ability to fix dinner.
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- It would be nice to have steps to make getting in and out of
the back of the Rover easier.
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- Mosquitos and bugs who are attracted to light are real problems.
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- The rear interior camping space is basically four feet by six
feet. I like to place boxes and such on the lowered tail gate
while I am cooking for easy access. The lowered tailgate is exposed
to the weather.
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- I drink a LOT of tea. The best place I have found to store my
teas is behind a fold up seat at the base of a wardrobe. This
is fine if the toilet is in it's stowed position and I have not
moved any boxes in front of the fold up seat. I would like to
find a place to store my teas that is easier to get at.
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Refining this wish list I have come up with an
Initial mark II design specification
- Additional power from the engine. I would like at least a 50%
increase in HP and torque without loosing fuel efficiency. This
means a minimum of 106 BHP. Gains in fuel efficiency with the
additional HP is highly desirable.
- Lower first gear ratio without lowering the overdrive fourth
gear ratio. Since the overdrive is no longer available, is a high
maintenance item, and the weak link in the gearing I would like
to replace it without loosing the high ratio.
- Replace the side skirts with a side impact protection bar that
is anchored at the front and rear fuel tank outriggers. The goal
is to keep a car height impact at a front door from rupturing
an under seat fuel tank or to collapse the side in to impact the
driver or passenger.
- Install additional storage for chains and spare parts in unused
areas inside the body. Preferably at frame level to keep the centre
of gravity as low as possible.
- Decide on storage space for an additional jack and a pair of
jack stands. Create a parts cleaning kit and decide where to pack
it.
- Increase braking capacity. Consider 6 cylinder front brakes
or late Santana disc brakes.
- Construct bug screens for all openings that should be kept open
during warm evenings.
- Replace cot material with design that is insulated to provide
insulation below the sleeping bag.
- Install a heater that will heat the interior while parked away
from external power. I strongly prefer propane since it will not
take away from the car's driving range and current propane use
is about one tank for about 3 and 1/2 weeks of camping.
- Install an air compressor and filling hose connection. A small
reserve air tank would be nice.
- Design a rear awning/bug screen/tent that is easy and quick
to erect.
- Design and build a conveniently located tea cabinet that can
hold containers for at least three, preferably four kinds of tea
.
- Consider some kind of water heater/solar bag that can provide
quick easy hot water for cleaning at the end of a day's travels.
- Install an inside dual 120 V outlet for use when the car is
located where power is available. This would allow me to close
a window/bug screen if I wanted to run electricity into the car.
- Permanently mount a battery charger that can keep batteries
charged while 120V is available.
- Look into replacing the plastic cloth part of the pop up roof.
PROGRESS
Once the mark II specifications were decided upon I started looking
for and installing items to bring The Green Rover into specification.
Here is a description of the progress I'm making towards meeting
the MK II specifications:
MK II spec - Increased tea storage
I have fabricated a wide tea cabinet that just fits above the rear
door opening. It stretches across the entire rear body and has space
for seven standard Tea boxes. The location is out of the way and
handy when brewing tea. The cabinet is fabricated out of sheet aluminum
and painted silver hammerite to match the rest of the furniture.
MK II spec - Decide on storage space for an additional jack
and a pair of jack stands. Create a parts cleaning kit and decide
where to pack it.
I have obtained a surplus German machine gun cleaning kit to use
as a parts cleaner. It has a container for clean solvent, one for
dirty solvent, a cleaning basin and a box for storing brushes &
rags. I have added a series screw axle jack and a Discovery hydraulic
bottle jack to the kit. For the time being the jack stands, additional
jacks and a box of more spare parts have been moved to the roof
rack. I'm not pleased about the weight addition but it will do until
I come up with something better.
MK II Spec - Adding onboard air for airing up tyres on the trail
After looking at specifications of a number of 12V air pumps I
decided upon the Quickair 2 compressor by Sun Performance Co. This
is a compact rugged high output pump with a good reputation. I was
originally going to mount the pump inside the right rear toolbox
where it would be out of the way and protected. However the duty
cycle is thermal dependent and there is no real airflow inside a
tool box. The life expectancy of the pump is reduced markedly if
run at high temperatures. Also the pump has a small air cleaner
that should be cleaned occasionally. To access my right rear tool
box I need to remove the refrigerator and the read folding jump
seat. After much thought I decided to mount the pump at the rear
top of the side bench just behind the toolbox lid. There is just
enough space with the rear lamp cover removed. Access to the quick
connect air connector, power switch and pressure gauge is just inside
the right rear corner of the Green Rover. I found space for a long
narrow air tank just behind the transfer case crosswise between
the frame rails. The tank sits above the rear prop shaft. There
is a pressure cutoff switch that keeps the system from overfilling.
MK II Spec: - Adding an inside 120V receptacle and permanently
connected battery charger for the second battery circuit.
The secondary battery is a gel cell deep cycle group 24 battery
located in the right rear toolbox. I purchased a fully encapsulated
marine 10 A, three stage battery charger designed to be permanently
connected into a battery/charging circuit. The charger is also located
inside the right rear tool box. I added a metal outlet box inside
the right rear toolbox alongside the second battery emergency shout
off switch. This is about halfway up the side of the right rear
bench. I used a duel outlet and exterior face plate with spring
loaded outlet covers.
When the Green Rover is parked for the night in a location that
has 120V available I can run a cord to my rear inlet that provides
120V for the refrigerator, up to 10A off the charger for interior
12V usage and power for two 120V outlets. On long cool weather trips
I carry a small 120V electric heater. Before the conversion I had
to run a cord through a window (leaving it partially open) to run
the heater.
MK II specs:
- Additional power from the engine. I would like at least a
50% increase in HP and torque without loosing fuel efficiency.
This means a minimum of 106 BHP. Gains in fuel efficiency with
the additional HP is highly desirable.
- Lower first gear ratio without lowering the overdrive fourth
gear ratio. Since the overdrive is no longer available, is a high
maintenance item, and the weak link in the gearing I would like
to replace it without loosing the high ratio.
I have spent a great deal of time researching engine, transmission
and gearing options. I ended up rejecting many options that initially
looked very good. When I combined all the variables such as initial
costs, ruggedness, long term cost, parts availability, ability to
meet my design specs and weighted conflicting specs like fuel mileage
vs. power, low end performance vs. freeway performance, most of
the interesting engine options dropped out.
I decided upon simplicity, brute strength, low initial cost, availability
and cost of parts and just plain ruggedness.
I have decided upon a Ford 302 engine, Borg Warner T-18 transmission
with granny first gear and a stock series LR transfer case. My Salisbury
axle is up to the additional power.
In addition I added power steering to further open up the engine
bay and to make handling more like a leaf sprung 110. This makes
the large heavy Green Rover much easier to handle in very slow speeds
and reduces driver fatigue.
Timm Cooper of Medford Oregon to made the engine and gearbox swap
during the Great Rebuild
of 1999. He also added the power steering. I love the results
of Timm's work.
The Green Rover no longer slows down when driving paved roads through
the hills. I can easily climb hills off roading that would have
bogged the original engine to a stall. Basically the car will go
anyplace I point it and the tyres can find traction. I added an
ARB air locker to the rear Salisbury to help in the traction department.
And best of all is that I'm getting the same fuel mileage as I got
with the LR four cylinder engine. Which is better than the EFI 3.9
Defenders are getting.
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