The factory workshop manual does a poor job describing how to replace the rear side sliding windows and what advice it does provide is misleading.

First of all the manual tells you to unbolt and remove the bottom galvanized drain assembly that holds the bottom slider rails. You can not remove this assembly without first removing the windows. There is no need to remove this piece when replacing window channels. The key is starting at the top.

1. Remove the window latches from the windows and inside top rails. There is a small metal part in the latch that pops into the holes in the top rail. It just sits into a hole on top and can easily fall out. YOU DO NOT WANT TO LOOSE THESE. If you do you will need to purchase a complete new latch assembly.

2. Drill out the pop rivets that secure the stainless steel top rails to the sides. A 3/16ths drill will probably work fine.

3. Now you need to hunt screws inside the top and side slide channels. Commonly there are two screws on each vertical channel. They roughly divided the channels into thirds. The rear vertical channel comes with a metal spacer that will come out with the channel when the screws are removed. The channels may stick in place, either from a glue or from age and heat on the materials. Careful prying should get it off.

Each top channel normally has a screw near each end and one near the window when it was full open in either direction. This makes a total of four screws for each top channel. The are commonly side by side on both channels.

Each bottom channel normally has three screws each. One near each end and one in the middle. As with the top channels, the bottoms are normally side by side between the two channels.

Locate each screw and clear the area around the screw heads. With a little luck and a posi drive screwdriver that fits the screw head, most if not all the screws will come out after clearing away the shrouding channel remains.

4. Once the screws are removed from the top rail channels pull/push the top of the windows inwards. The top channels and windows should come out together.

5. Locate the screws on the bottom slide channels and remove them.

6. Clean out the galvanized lower window drain. Be sure to make sure that the drain holes below the window are also clear.

7. There is this black stuff at the bottom corners between the outer edge of the galvanized drip channel and the vertical reinforcement channels of the sides. It's purpose is to keep any stray moisture from leaking down the vertical slides and missing the drain pan. If it is not in very good condition or if it came out with everything else you will want to replace it.

This stuff is called Dumdum sealant. It works well for parts that move because it does not cure. It always remains tacky so can handle movement very well. It is normally sold in short strips at better auto parts stores. This is also the stuff the factory puts around the edges of your floor panels to seal them.

8. Clean up the surfaces, do any painting and surface prep that you have in mind.

NOTE: Assembly will be in the order of bottom slide channels, windows plus top slide channels then side channels.

Organize your window channels. For each side window, there are two short vertical channel sections plus four longer channel sections. Of the four, two are identical long channels. These are the top channels. The shorter channel with the ends cut flat is the inside bottom channel. The shorter channel with a notch cut at the end is the lower outside channel. The notches face the outside.

9. Temporarily place the rear side channel spacer in place and use it to locate the notched lower channel. Centre the long bottom channel . Push both channels towards the outside to eliminate any space between the channels and the channel and wall.

NOTE: The new channel securing screws provided by Rover has a larger diameter top than the old ones. The original ones were angled towards the outside of the channel bottoms. With the larger head, drill the hole in the centre straight down so the glass doesn't hang up on the screw head. The screws are posi drive and takes a 7/16ths drill.

Install a center and end screws at the inside bottom of each bottom channel.

10. If you are using new windows install the wiper rubber and metal clamp. They need to be centered vertically on the glass.

11. Set both windows in the lower channels and put the top channels in place on the top of the windows. Push the windows and channels up into place. Slide both windows to one end. With all the slack between top channels removed, add a screw on each top slide near the edge of the glass and then a second near the end.

12. Slide the windows to the other end and repeat step 11.

13. Line up the front vertical channel with it's corresponding top and bottom channels and secure it in place with two screws.

14. Set the rear channel spacer and rear vertical slide into place. Line the rear slide channel up with the inside channels. Don't worry about a tight fit to the wall. Secure it into place with two screws.

15. Secure the stainless steel rails back into place with 3/16ths pop rivets.

16. Install the window latches into place using new gaskets. The latches and their mounting screws are different lengths and will not fit if you get them backwards. Use additional rubber gaskets between the window and latch as spacers to get the latch lined up with the sliding rail. If it is cocked the latch will not release smoothly and it will try to catch on each hole in the slide.

And that is all there is to it. The window movement will be stiff at first. But it will look nicer and your rear interior will be dryer.

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