A number of people have asked me what I carry on long trips to give them a starting point for developing their own tools and spares kit. While I carry tools and spares, I consider them less important than preventing a breakdown before it happens.

I can not over emphasize the importance of finding and correcting potential breakdowns before going out in the field.

Before going on long trips or offroading, I make a pre trip inspection.

While on a trip, I frequently check fluids and make visual inspections.

When I return from an offroad or major long distance trip I make a post trip inspection to check for and repair any damage that may have occurred on the trip.

The goal of these inspections is to prevent problems and to locate any developing problems and correct them before they become major problems. I carry spares and tools on my trips so that I can make these inspections and correct problems along the way.

Tool kit

You will need a dry place to keep the tools so they will not rust. I use a small ammo box.

• Socket set - I have a three eighths socket set with both shallow and deep sockets, long and short extensions, short and long ratchets, breaker bar, and torque wrench. In addition, I carry a front hub socket.
   
• Screw drivers - An assortment of slot and Phillips screwdrivers
   
• Vice Grips and crescent wrenches - I bring one large and one small of each.
   
• Combination wrenches - I bring a set from 3/8" to 1-1/8 " including second 1/2" and 9/16 " combination wrenches with a different length handle from the set. Plus I brings some Whitworth tools because Whitworth sizes commonly show up in the Series drive train.

  You do not need a complete socket or wrench set for your truck as there are some sizes that do not exist on your truck.  The most common Whitworth sizes for your truck are:

  3/16 - The little nuts holding the transfercase bottom plate and I think the retaining bolts for the big swivel housing seal
  1/4 - Common use
  5/16 - Common use on the transfercase.  You will need a 5/16ths socket for the nuts inside the transfercase holding it to the gearbox
  3/8 - The transfercase mounting bracket fixings and a couple other places

  You might also consider a 7/16 and a 1/2 spanner.  They are not as commonly used as the other sizes and you can normally get an adjustable spanner in where these nuts are located.

  
   
• Pliers - one gas pliers, one long slip jaw pliers and one long nose pliers.
   
• Cutters and strippers - One large diagonal cutter, one crimper and one wire stripper.
   
• Continuity tester or multimeter
   
• Clip lead with alligator clips on both ends
   
• Hammer
   
• Short crowbar
   
• Punches and chisels - A small assortment
   
• Drop cloth - I use a 5X7 plastic tarp. You can lay on it or use it as a rain cover while working on the car
   
• Files - A set of jewelers files or a very small sharp angle file for refilling threads. A flat and a round file.
   
• Feeler gauges
   
• Light - A battery powered light that you can work by.
   

Consumables

• RTV - I use the blue RTV that comes in the silver tube.
   
• Shop towels
   
• Insulated wire - About 10 to 20 feet insulated wire #12 AWG
   
• Electrical tape
   
• Brake fluid - DOT4 or DOT5 depending upon what fluid is in the system.
   
• 90 wt oil and pump
   
• Engine oil
   
• Grease gun along with a supply of grease - Whenever you wade your car water gets into the 'U' joints and tie rod ends. Regreasing them after wading forces the water out. You also will want to grease your fittings more frequently if making long trips across very dusty or sandy terrain.
   
• Bailing Wire - About one three wire bale's worth
   
• Sandpaper - one sheet of fine sand paper for cleaning electrical connections.
   
• Fuses - a spare box containing at least 2 of each fuse size in your car
   
• Electrical connectors - I carry an assortment of crimp on connectors that I use in my car in case one comes loose. I also carry enough to make emergency circuit bypass wires. I have a selection of new Lucas barrel connectors and Lucas style solder on connector ends.
   
• Bolts - You can't carry every size and length. After loosing essential bolts that I did not have replacements for a few times I have put together an extensive "fixings kit" that fits into a container with lots of dividers. I have spent well over US$ 100 to fill the kit with four grade 8 versions of every bolt, nut and washer I can think of that is on my Land Rover. This includes special Land Rover lock tabs, leaf spring pack bolts and cotter pins. 

Bolt box closed .  The box has two levels of compartments

This is the top level that contains grade 8 nuts, lock washers, flat washers, fender washers, cottar pins (Including one that fits the scuttle vent) , assorted screws, hub washers and seals, hinge kit, tyre air nipples and such.

This is the bottom compartment which contains an assortment of grade 8 bolts, special Land Rover fixings, spare brake hose, electrical connectors, hose clamps, shock bushings, special leaf spring bolts, special fixings and assorted glues & goops.

Spare parts

You should rotate your spare parts, using them on your car next time you need them then buy new ones for spares. Hoses coated with talcum powder and put into zip lock bags will remain good for a long time. Wrap your new fuel and water pumps in oiled rags then seal them into bags to keep moisture out. The rest of the stuff should be packed into zip lock bags where possible to keep moisture out.

• Tune up kit - A new set of spark plugs, distributor cap. rotor, points and condenser.
   
• Spark plug wires
   
• Ignition coil
   
• Fuel filter
   
• Oil Filter
   
• Gasket - for fuel pump sediment bowel
   
• Water pump and gasket
   
• Hoses - Top and bottom radiator hose, and length of heater hose equal in length to your longest heater hose
   
• Hose clamps - Two of each size you use
   
• Rear 'U' bolts - Two new rear 'U' bolts with fixings. Yes they can break.
   
• Carburetor rebuild kit
   
• Fan belt
   
• Spare rear axles - Unless you are using the stronger Salisbury axles
   
• Engine mounts - Two new diesel engine mounts plus new grade 8 fixings. Engine mounts are most likely to break under extreme offroading. I prefer the stronger diesel engine mounts to the petrol mounts. The transmission uses the same mount. Remember, you can not replace them unless you carry a jack that can lift the engine or transmission off the frame.
   

Lastly

If you are not well versed on working on your car, bring the workshop manuals. If you may be near a phone, bring a parts catalogue, phone numbers for at least two mail order parts houses and a credit card.

Remember, the very best break down is the one you prevented before you left on the trip.

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